Grand Perron traverse (09.08.2017)

Written by hmsv1 (Hannah Vickers)

Start point Emosson dam car park
Characteristic Climbing
Duration 6h 45min
Map
Ascents Grand Perron (2,674m) 09.08.2017

After a day of rain and only having done a quick and easy via ferrata at Nax on Tuesday, the weather forecast for Wednesday looked more promising with the last of the rain and fog supposed to clear in the morning. There was even a chance of seeing sunshine later in the day! However, since bad weather was forecasted again on both Thursday and Friday it seemed like the best option would be to do a day trip. We also made a plan to switch our rest day from Saturday to Thursday so we could make the most of the good weather which was forecasted to be coming at the start of the weekend. With this in mind Sami suggested either doing some rock climbing in the valley or the Grand Perron traverse. Both Linda and I agreed that a high level ridge traverse would be a far more interesting option than valley rock climbing! The risk of afternoon thunderstorms on Wednesday meant that we needed to start the traverse early to make sure we were off the mountain by early afternoon, so it was decided that we’d leave Evolene at 6am and make the 1.5 hr drive across to the Emosson dam to allow enough time to complete the route.

On the approach to the start of the traverse
On the approach to the start of the traverse
Gearing up
Gearing up
Lac d'emosson emerges from the fog
Lac d'emosson emerges from the fog
Linda on easy ground on the way up to Grand Perron
Linda on easy ground on the way up to Grand Perron
Sami and some blue sky!
Sami and some blue sky!
Grand Perron
Grand Perron
Some traversing around blocks
Some traversing around blocks
On the north side of the ridge
On the north side of the ridge

On Wednesday morning we woke up to thick, damp fog and a somewhat unoptimistic guide. ‘It’s not looking good….’ was Sami’s first opinion on the current weather as we drove from the apartment in Evolene in the dark . Still, we decided that now we’d actually made the effort to get up early it would be worth seeing how things developed by the time we arrived at the car park by the Emosson dam. As it happened the air wasn’t quite so damp by the time we got there at just after 7.30 but it was still pretty foggy and the chances were that the ridge hadn’t yet dried up after Tuesday’s storms. Linda and I remained eager to make a start so our new plan was to walk up towards the ridge and see how conditions were. After a short while we took off to the left and followed a footpath up the mountainside which. This was pretty wet and muddy in places, but after about half an hour the fog had lifted somewhat and we could actually see both the Emosson lake and part of Grand Perron itself! We put on climbing gear before the terrain steepened up and became more scrambly in nature. Even though there were spots of sunshine by now the rock here was as slippery as soap, so we scrambled short sections and used the bolts to protect these sections until we finally got onto a more gravel-type path leading up a gully with some scrambling towards the col on the ridge. The was some fog which came and went but by the time we’d got above the vegetation line the rock was completely dry and pleasant to scramble on. It had been a good decision to get out early after all!

Nearing the top of Grand Perron
Nearing the top of Grand Perron
Some slab climbing first :)
Some slab climbing first :)
First abseil down to the col between Grand Perron and Pointe Vouilloz
First abseil down to the col between Grand Perron and Pointe Vouilloz
Second abseil down to the col between Grand Perron and Pointe Vouilloz
Second abseil down to the col between Grand Perron and Pointe Vouilloz
Climbers descending down to the col
Climbers descending down to the col
Grand Perron seen from on the way up to Pointe Vouilloz
Grand Perron seen from on the way up to Pointe Vouilloz
View back towards Grand Perron from top of Pointe Vouilloz
View back towards Grand Perron from top of Pointe Vouilloz

From the col we went along a path on the north side of the ridge before ascending up to its crest after a short distance from the col. Easy scrambling and ridge walking followed to reach the first summit on the ridge. Much of the ground between the first top and Grand Perron consisted of sections of straightforward downclimbing and traversing short exposed sections. On the sunny side of the ridge we were even rewarded with some views across to the Mont Blanc massif – even the Dent du Geant could be seen emerging above the carpet of fog! More downclimbing and 2 short abseils followed to reach the lowpoint between Grand Perron and Pointe Vouilloz. By this time a Swedish guide and his client weren’t that far behind us, which prompted Sami’s quote of the day; ‘we have to beat team Sweden!’ A pitch of easy climbing and a bit more scrambling, moving together on a short rope got us up to the top of Pointe Vouilloz with a nice but partially fog-obscured view of Grand Perron behind us. From here we downclimbed along the ridge to the start of the next 2 abseils which went straight down the northwest-facing wall of Pointe Vouilloz and finished more or less at the foot of the final climb up to Pointe de l’Ifala. The first pitch up from here included the crux move of the traverse, more or less just above the belay, which wasn’t really all that difficult since we were climbing in mountain boots. From the top of that pitch we moved together and did a short pitch here and there to traverse across and up to the summit of Pointe de l’Ifala. I’m lead to believe that on a clear day the view back across to Pointe Vouilloz and Grand Perron from here is supposed to be pretty fantastic but as luck would have it we didn’t get any view. Nevertheless we got glimpses of mountains and lakes in the distance before we started the descent down towards Lac d’Emosson again. At least it was dry and warm despite the mist. Plus we did also beat team Sweden to the top of Pointe de l’Ifala, which was also the final summit on the traverse!

The rest of the traverse from Pointe Vouilloz to Pointe de l'Ifala
The rest of the traverse from Pointe Vouilloz to Pointe de l'Ifala
Midway down the northfacing wall on Pointe Vouilloz
Midway down the northfacing wall on Pointe Vouilloz
Abseil nr.2
Abseil nr.2
Climbing the first pitch on Pointe de l'Ifala
Climbing the first pitch on Pointe de l'Ifala
Traversing across the ridge towards the summit of Pointe de l'Ifala
Traversing across the ridge towards the summit of Pointe de l'Ifala
Linda and Sami on Pointe de l'Ifala. No views obviously.
Linda and Sami on Pointe de l'Ifala. No views obviously.
But we got some sort of view on the way back down!
But we got some sort of view on the way back down!

The walk down was at times steep with some bits of scrambling, but there was a visible path to follow all the way down to the Breche des Perrons from where we headed down to the valley, passing a couple of small lakes and a gorge along the way. Once down in the main valley of Gorge de la Veudale we joined a footpath and followed it all the way back to the Emosson dam feeling rather satisfied with the day’s very good quality ridge traverse. I think we were all rather pleased that we didn’t let the early morning fog change our plans. But I think it would be rather fun to redo the ridge traverse in better weather, just for the views!

User comments

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    Some truly

    Written by mortenh 05.09.2017 23:28

    Some truly spectacular glimpses og sharp ridges and valleys deep below through holes in the clouds. Looks like a really exciting and thrilling traverse.

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      Re: Some truly

      Written by hmsv1 06.09.2017 09:09

      Yes, it was a great ridge traverse although I don't think any of the photos do it justice since I only took the camera out on the easy bits of the traverse!

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