Morning hike to Isalo Rock Lodge Mountain (02.08.2019)

Written by Solan (Atle Solholm) GSM

Start point Isalo Rock Lodge
Endpoint Isalo Rock Lodge
Characteristic Hillwalk
Duration 1h 26min
Distance 4.6km
Vertical meters 1,664m
GPS
Ascents Isalo Rock Lodge Mountain (1,005m) 02.08.2019 09:09
The "Isalo Rock Lodge Mountain" as seen from the Isalo Rock Lodge. I asked a number of locals about the name of the mountain, but they all replied that it doesn't have any specific name, "it's just Isalo"; and that's why, when adding the mountain as a Peakbook element, I just called it "The Isalo Rock Lodge Mountain", due to its proximity to the Isalo Rock Lodge.
The "Isalo Rock Lodge Mountain" as seen from the Isalo Rock Lodge. I asked a number of locals about the name of the mountain, but they all replied that it doesn't have any specific name, "it's just Isalo"; and that's why, when adding the mountain as a Peakbook element, I just called it "The Isalo Rock Lodge Mountain", due to its proximity to the Isalo Rock Lodge.

It was a beautiful morning, as all mornings on Madagascar at this time of the year. The south west of Madagascar is generally a dry area, and even more so during the dry season. We had been visiting the Isalo National Park for the last two days, and we had been staying at the Isalo Rock Lodge for the occation. It was our second visit to the Isalo National Park this time, and we were travelling with a rather large company of people: It was me, my wife, our oldest daughter, my mother, my wife's parents, her sister with her family, and her brother with his family. On the previous day I had been on a guided hike with my daughter and my mother; and I can assure you there's a fascinating wildlife in the park with a range of animals from lemurs to small insects. I've been married to a Malagasy woman for more than 30 years, and yet this was just my third visit to Madagascar. Standing on the veranda of the main building of the Isalo Rock Lodge, I had been frequently looking up at the mountain just east of the lodge, wishing for an opportunity to climb it. Nevertheless we were heading for Tulear this morning, so I really didn't have time for the climb, as we had planned to leave at about 9 o'clock.

This little tree, which was clinging onto the rock as best it could, with roots extending into the fissures of the rock; gave me something to hold onto when climbing the near vertical rock beneath it.
This little tree, which was clinging onto the rock as best it could, with roots extending into the fissures of the rock; gave me something to hold onto when climbing the near vertical rock beneath it.
The Isalo Rock Lodge as seen from the gorge that I entered by climbing the steep rock seen on the previous picture. The Isalo Rock Lodge offers quite luxurious accommodation, a nice restaurant and an outdoor swimming pool.
The Isalo Rock Lodge as seen from the gorge that I entered by climbing the steep rock seen on the previous picture. The Isalo Rock Lodge offers quite luxurious accommodation, a nice restaurant and an outdoor swimming pool.

"I think you should take the climb," my wife suddenly said to me. "You will regret it if you don't." I looked at her, and pointed out that it was already past 9 o'clock, but then she just shrugged her shoulders, and said "there's no way the rest of our company will be ready for departure, at least for another hour. They've been late for departure every single day we've been traveling." I didn't waste any time, but immediately set off for the narrow valley between the Lodge and the Mountain. There's a somewhat nice track down into the valley, with signs leading the way to a piscine naturelle [i.e. French for a natural swimming pool]. I didn't descend all the way down to the natural swimming pool, however. There's a little creek in the bottom of the valley, which goes down to the piscine naturelle, but I crossed the creek as soon as I came down to it, and headed up the mountain side on the other side of the creek.

The gorge that I had entered led me onto a fascinating mountain plateau, where I realized it was just to push on to the summit of the mountain.
The gorge that I had entered led me onto a fascinating mountain plateau, where I realized it was just to push on to the summit of the mountain.
The GPS-track of this climb superimposed on a Google Maps satellite image. The upper line is the climb, and lower is the descent.
The GPS-track of this climb superimposed on a Google Maps satellite image. The upper line is the climb, and lower is the descent.

The first climb upwards was not too steep, and it led through some kind of forest, that had been partially hatched and burned down, probably to give place for farming and pasturing animals. But I soon came to some really steep rocks. I knew from studying the mountain from the lodge that there was a valley a little bit to the left, through which it would probably be easier to climb the mountain. Climbing is more fun than just mountain trekking, though, so I embarked eagerly upon the steep rocks. They seemed impossible to climb at first glance, but a closer look disclosed some rock fissures, tree roots, and tree branches that you could grab, and so I did. This climb led me into some kind of a gorge, that eventually led me unto a mountain plateau, from which I could see the summit of the mountain. It was just to push on for the summit as quickly as possible, in order not to keep our company waiting to long for me, and in order not to stay too long without solar protection in the burning sun.

On the summit of the mountain. The Isalo Rock Lodge is seen in the background. The rock formations in this area are just amazing.
On the summit of the mountain. The Isalo Rock Lodge is seen in the background. The rock formations in this area are just amazing.
View towards the west. In between these rocks are located two other nice lodges, i.e. the Hôtel Le Jardin du Roy and Hôtel Relais de la Reine.
View towards the west. In between these rocks are located two other nice lodges, i.e. the Hôtel Le Jardin du Roy and Hôtel Relais de la Reine.

I partially walked, and partially ran up the slopes of the mountain. I soon reached a valley that sort of cleaves the plateau in two, but by holding a bit to the left, it was possible to get around it. I soon reached the summit, where I took time to shoot a few photos, before I headed back to the Isalo Rock Lodge. I chose a different path for the descent, thinking I would save some time and avoid having the others waiting for me. I descended into the above mentioned valley that cleaves part of the plateau, and as I reached a little creek in the bottom of the valley, I even found sort of a track that I could follow. I don't think I saved any time by following this route, however, as there was some rather steep climbing down to the bottom of the valley; it might be that I should have just followed my own steps back to the lodge, if the main focus was to get there as soon as possible. The path that I had found eventually became better, and I started jogging. It led around the south confinement of the mountain, and down to the piscine naturelle; from where I continued up the track by which I had descended a little bit less than two hours earlier. As I came back to the lodge, I learned that the rest of our company hadn't been waiting more than half an hour for me. My wife was right: I am happy I took this climb this morning, and I would have regretted it if I hadn't.

View towards the town/village of Ranohira, just north east of this mountain. The park office, where you buy tickets etc. for visiting the Isalo National Park, is located at Ranohira.
View towards the town/village of Ranohira, just north east of this mountain. The park office, where you buy tickets etc. for visiting the Isalo National Park, is located at Ranohira.
View more directly to the east.
View more directly to the east.

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