Sceilig Mhichíl monastery (13.08.2018)

Written by Bekki (Rebekka Holmgaard)

Start point Blind Man's Cove (1m)
Characteristic Hike
Duration 2h 30min
Vertical meters 218m
Map
Visits of other PBEs Blind Man's Cove (1m) 13.08.2018
Skellig Michael monastary (218m) 13.08.2018

This was a super exciting day! It is hard to come by tickets to a landing boat tour to Sceilig Mhichíl, and even then the trips can be cancelled in the morning due to bad weather. So I was really happy to get a chance to visit this beautiful island with it's extensive bird life, dramatic scenery, rich history of celtic monks building steep stone stairs and a monastary 200 meters above sea level, as well as being the filming location of Ahch-To in the Star Wars VII & VIII films.

The trip started by getting on the Lady Clare in Portmagee and journeying the 12 km out into the Atlantic. First passing the Sceilig Bheag (lit. "Small Rock", known in English as Small Skellig) with its huge bird colonies, and then reaching the Sceilig Mhichíl (lit. "Michael's Rock", referring to the archangel Michael, also known in English as Skellig Michael or Big Skellig). Set ashore at the Blind Man's Cove landing site we walked the concrete path, made for the lighthouses built in on the island in the 1800's, before meeting a guide at the bottom of the stone steps up to the monestary. The over 600 steps leading 200 meters up the steep mountain were built in the 600-800's over several generations. Going up we first passed The Wailing Wives, a sculpture like stone, which is also the scene of the landing of the Millennium Falcon in Star Wars VII, and the very stone that Rey cuts in two with her light saber in Star Wars VIII. Continuing upwards the steps were easily climbed. The only problem for me ascending the uneven steps was keeping my balance while waiting for the slower walkers in front of me.

Protective roof over a part of the modern path leading from Blind Man's Cove to the start of the medieval stairs.
Protective roof over a part of the modern path leading from Blind Man's Cove to the start of the medieval stairs.
Start of the lowest preserved medieval steps. Here we had to attend a safety talk from a guide befor ascending.
Start of the lowest preserved medieval steps. Here we had to attend a safety talk from a guide befor ascending.

Eventually we reached the saddle between the two peaks called Christ's Saddle, which is also the scene of Rey handing Luke his Lightsaber in Star Wars VII. To the left/west is the path to the hermitage and the highest peak of Sceilig Mhichíl. Sadly one needs to apply for special permission beforehand to be allowed to climb the peak, after a fatality near the peak some 10 years back.

Me in front of the Wailing Woman stone formation. This is where the Millenium Falcon sets Rey ashore the island in Star Wars VII (stone CGI:ed out), and also the place where Rey slashes the stone formation in half with her light sabre in Star Wars VIII.
Me in front of the Wailing Woman stone formation. This is where the Millenium Falcon sets Rey ashore the island in Star Wars VII (stone CGI:ed out), and also the place where Rey slashes the stone formation in half with her light sabre in Star Wars VIII.
Me in front of the highest point of Sceilig Mhichíl. All fenced in and requiring prior permission and accompanying of a guide if one wants to go to the hermitage and the highest peak of the island.
Me in front of the highest point of Sceilig Mhichíl. All fenced in and requiring prior permission and accompanying of a guide if one wants to go to the hermitage and the highest peak of the island.

From the saddle it was only a short flight of stair left before reaching the old monastery and its unique beehive shelters at 218 meters above the sea. Here another guide awaited to tell the history of the site and answer questions, some historical but mostly Star Wars related. I took a while to explore the old monestary, look out the stunning view towards Sceilig Bheag and of course get my picture taken before Luke Skywalker's hut.

Just inside the monastery, with Sceilig Bheag across the water.
Just inside the monastery, with Sceilig Bheag across the water.
Me in front of Luke Skywalker's hut. (Or Cell A as the historians like to call it)
Me in front of Luke Skywalker's hut. (Or Cell A as the historians like to call it)

There is only one way down, the same stairs as I went up on. Took a pause to eat some fruit and snacks at the saddle and continue down towards the Blind Man's Cove to wait for the boat to pick us up for the journey back to Portmagee. In total about 45 minutes by boat to reach Sceilig Mhichíl, 2.5 hours spent on the island, and 45 minutes back to Portmagee.

Sceilig Mhichíl seen from the boat back to Portmagee.
Sceilig Mhichíl seen from the boat back to Portmagee.

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