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Rondane 2000m 50m pf
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70% -
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61%
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Whitehorse ledge
- Dato:
- 15.11.2015
- Turtype:
- Klatring
Beautiful November day on Whitehorse Ledge with Phil and Kevin. Acctually my first time here. Since I only got one week left in New England it was about time.
We got some slabs, some delicate face climbs, finger locks and perfect hands. The exposure was big and the views were beautiful. What more to ask for? Pizza? Yes, we got that too!
S&D:
- Ancient artifacts, 1p 5.8
- Cold day in hell, 1p 5.9+
- Tranquility, 3rd pitch 5.10b
- Inferno, last 2 pitches 5.8
VMC 3rd attempt: Send!
- Dato:
- 12.09.2015
- Turtype:
- Klatring
- Turlengde:
- 8:30t
A few introductionary words. After moving to Boston in january 2014, buying a trad-rack the following spring, discovering that New Hampshire is called "the granite state", and further discovering that granite is incredibly fun to climb, I quickly put aside bouldering to focus on learning the ropes with gear. I was lucky to run into some good New England climbers (Dan, Kevin and Phil) who showed me how it's done. I was quickly facinated by Cannon Cliff, the tallest and coolest of the New England Cliffs. Multi-pitch climbing up there was almost too fun. I felt like a real "fjellklatrar"!
Last fall I bought the training-manual "Training for the new alpinism" by the groundbreaking alpinist Steve House. There are thousands of manuals and methods out there, many of which >>>
Tordenvær gir glatt granitt på Selnesklippen
- Dato:
- 11.08.2015
- Turtype:
- Klatring
På sommarferie i Trøndelagen. Eg og AndreasNordstrand (Andreas Nordstrand) tok turen til Selnes for å oppleve årgangsgranitt. No går det litt i surr på rutenavn, men vi byrja med nokre svalengder, og enda i ein bratt toppvegg, sånn ca. Det var meldt tordenbyger denne dagen, men kven kan tru på slikt når været er fint? Etter å ha klatra oss gjennom tre innledande sva-lengder stod vi under toppveggen, og den var så flott at litt forbipasserande skyer ikkje lot oss stoppe i det heile. Vi var havna noko feil i høve til føraren, men eg såg eg kunne kome inn på den planlagte ruta gjennom eit dieder også over til eit rissystem. Diederet var fantastisk fin 4+/5- klatring. Deilig å berre følge formasjonane utan å tenke for mykje på rutebeta, berre tenke oppdrift oppdrift! Så kom dagens crux: ein kort 6/6+-seksjon, før >>>
VMC 2nd try: nemesis-alarm
- Dato:
- 25.07.2015
- Turtype:
- Klatring
- Turlengde:
- 8:00t
Two weeks ago me and Phil climbed the first 3 pitches of VMC Direct (5.10+/7-, 9 pitches), but we rapped of as team members did not feel in good health. Today me and Dan planned to send this proud line through the tallest section of Cannon.
Even though I had been up the route already, I slept nervously the night before, waking up with thoughts about falling at hard moves. These thoughts kept churning in my head during the 2h30min drive up to Cannon. But as always, they disappear once we start climbing. Me and Dan decided to swing leads so that I could try the cruxy 2nd pitch, and he got to try the beautiful 3rd pitch that I climbed last time.
1. pitch (5.7/4?): Up a ramp, Dan took down this pretty fast.
2. pitch (5.10+/6+ e.l. 7-): A physical and cruxy pitch. Wet! Got smoothly through a small >>>
