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"Peakbookvenner"
Dôme & Aiguille de Rochefort
- Dato:
- 18.07.2019
- Turtype:
- Alpin klatring
- Turlengde:
- 10:05t
- Distanse:
- 8,6km
After coming back to Evolene from Saas Almagell there was a bit of a swap with guides so for the remainder of the 10 days I was going to be climbing again with Tim Neill whom I’d had a great week with in 2018. First on the plan was to make a new attempt to do the Rochefort traverse over Aiguilles de Rochefort and Dome de Rochefort – and fortunately there were beds available at the Torino hut for the following night when we wanted to get up there. The drive from Evolene to Courmayeaur took a couple of hours via the Grand St. Bernard pass and driving around through Aosta and finally northward to Courmayeur where we did a quick shopping trip at a local supermarket. Having gotten used to grocery shopping at Norwegian and Swiss prices, Italy seemed super cheap!
We then hopped onto the Skyway >>>
Weissmies
- Dato:
- 16.07.2019
- Turtype:
- Alpin klatring
- Turlengde:
- 6:00t
Back in the Alps again for my 10th summer visit, and like the previous 3 years with a base again in Evolene. I felt semi-acclimatised after having spent a few days hiking up to 3200m in the Saas valley the week before and since I’d arranged to have 1:1 guiding this year I was keen to tick off a few more of the 4000m peaks. For the first trip I was climbing with guide Graham Frost who I’d done the Dent Blanche with back in 2016 and initially I’d suggested heading over to the Torino hut to start with the Rochefort Arete since both the Aiguille de Rochefort and Dome de Rochefort were relatively low 4000ers and easy to access. However, since the Torino hut was fully booked and it had dumped it down with new snow on the first night we ended up joining guides Tim and Jon who were working for >>>
Ober Gabelhorn
- Dato:
- 15.08.2018
- Turtype:
- Alpin klatring
- Turlengde:
- 12:00t
The weather was pretty wet on the Monday after we’d done the Gastlosen traverse, so we had ended up doing two short climbs at Bramois just outside of Sion and then going to the nearest cafe to plan the remainder of the week. Basically the weather was going to still be a little damp on Tuesday but both Wednesday and Thursday were looking good with a fairly high degree of certainty on meteoblue.com. The logical thing to do (in my mind at least) was to go to a hut where we could do two days of climbing and make the most of the good weather days, and the Rothorn hut seemed like the perfect solution since it gives access to both the Ober Gabelhorn and Zinalrothorn, two beautiful (and pointy) 4000m peaks which I have wanted to climb for much too long! The north face of the Ober Gabelhorn is a particularly >>>
Grand Combin
- Dato:
- 09.08.2018
- Turtype:
- Alpin klatring
- Turlengde:
- 7:45t
The Grand Combin ended up being the major summit of the week climbing with Tim and we were also joined by Janine and aspirant mountain guide Jack. It was nice to have another female for company, although when the other female has previously been on the British skimo racing team it made me a bit nervous about the pace we’d be hiking up to the Valsorey hut in ;) We left Evolene at around 9am on the wednesday and stopped at Martigny to pick up Jack before continuing the journey up to Bourg St. Bernard where the trail to the hut starts. With about 1200m of height gain it’s regarded as one of the "longer" hut walks and fortunately that means it also ends up being quieter. There was only a group of three female hikers and another couple other than us staying at the hut that evening. >>>
Aiguille Sans Nom
- Dato:
- 07.08.2018
- Turtype:
- Alpin klatring
- Turlengde:
- 8:30t
After our day trip to Pointe de Tsalion the weather forecast was checked again and the conclusion was still the same as before; fine in the mornings but high likelihood of heavy rain and thunderstorms in the afternoons. Tuesday morning wasn’t looking too great either so we made a decision to head for the Orny hut where there were numerous options for less committing and shorter climbs than compared with for example a 4000m peak. I’d stayed at the Orny hut once before and I guess it’s pleasant enough with easy access from the lift at Champex-Lac and there is plenty of climbing to do close to the hut and also further up the valley around the Trient plateau. We had in mind to do the south ridge of the Aiguille Sans Nom (3444m), one of several tops in the Aiguilles Dorées (translates into >>>
Pointe de Tsalion
- Dato:
- 05.08.2018
- Turtype:
- Alpin klatring
- Turlengde:
- 11:00t
For the past 5 years I have tended to spend my annual summer holiday in the Alps climbing with a guide and in keeping with tradition I did the same this year with Evolene as the main base for 2 weeks. I’d been paired up with David for the first half of the week and British mountain guide Tim Neill. David’s climbing CV was probably at least 5 times longer than mine so it was going to prove a challenge to decide on climbing objectives to do which he hadn’t already done! With somewhat unstable weather forecasted for the week we ended up making the most of the good weather for our first day and headed off to Arolla at 6am to do a day trip up Pointe de Tsalion and climb the route Voie de la Cabane (D-), which basically follows a not-so-prominent spine that goes up the west side of the mountain. >>>
Jegigrat
- Dato:
- 12.08.2015
- Turtype:
- Alpin klatring
- Turlengde:
- 9:30t
Final proper climb for this holiday. I’d had a few quiet days in Zermatt while there was thundery wet weather going and we had a quick chat after the weekend to plan where we would head next. Initially we’d thought to finish off with a relatively big objective – the east ridge on the Weisshorn – but after hearing that new snow had been dumped down to at least 3300m as a result of the bad weather it didn’t sound like there would be ideal conditions for doing that route. The visibility in Zermatt was still not good enough to allow for any mountains to be visible so it was difficult to evaluate the conditions up high. So instead our final objective ended up being the Jegigrat, a ridge connecting the Jegihorn and Fletschhorn a little north of the Weissmies hut. The highest top on the >>>
Portjengrat traverse
- Dato:
- 22.08.2014
- Turtype:
- Alpin klatring
- Turlengde:
- 10:30t
Final day of the climbing week. Objective: Portjengrat. This is a ca. 1km long ridge route at alpine AD/AD+ and according to the guidebook, required in the region of 9 hours to complete from the Almageller hut. Originally Terry had proposed that we have breakfast at 3.30am again to leave by 4am, but since the hut wardens weren’t serving breakfast earlier than 5am, it meant that we would aim to leave by 5.30am. Luxury alpine start?(!). I slept incredibly well, despite sharing a small dormitory with approx. 8 or 9 other guys. This has to be the first time EVER I have stayed in an alpine hut with so many guys who DON’T snore! Unbelievable. In a good way :)
The atmosphere round our table at breakfast was somewhat quiet, in contrast to some of the other groups who seemed un-normally chatty for >>>
Dri Hörnli
- Dato:
- 21.08.2014
- Turtype:
- Alpin klatring
- Turlengde:
- 6:00t
After some heavy rain showers during the previous evening, we all woke up to a surprisingly sunny morning in Saas Grund. Turns out the weather was proving to be better than what we’d expected from the forecast. Anyway, we had a decent, laid-back breakfast and got ready to leave at around 10am. The plan for today was to walk up to the Almageller hut, leave behind stuff we didn’t need and then do an afternoon climb on the Dri Horlini (or Dri Hörnli), which is graded at around 4/4+. It was great to be wearing lighter and more flexible boots today too! I had only tested out a pair of Scarpa Rebel Lite goretex boots on one or two hikes before leaving Tromsø, so I hoped they would be equally as comfortable now.
The walk up to the hut starts from Saas Almagell. We saved ourselves one or two hundred >>>
Spidean a'Choire Leith (George)
- Dato:
- 12.02.2013
- Turtype:
- Alpin klatring
- Turlengde:
- 8:00t
- Distanse:
- 8,0km
Third day of our climbing course up in the northwest highlands, and also supposedly the final day of settled, beautiful weather before rain was going to set in. So to make the most of this, and the excellent snow and ice conditions we'd experienced so far, it was decided that we would head towards Torridon and attempt one of the 'classic' routes called George, which is located in Coire Dubh Mor on the northern side of Liathach.
Since the route was 4-5 pitches long and the drive from Strathcarron would take around 45 minutes it also meant having to drag ourselves out of bed for another early start. But it would probably be worth the effort as the previous two days' trips had proved! So at 7am we were out of the cottage and bundled once again into Ken's van. It felt pretty mild outside, still >>>
