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"Peakbookvenner"
Aiguille d'Entreves
- Dato:
- 16.08.2017
- Turtype:
- Klatring
- Turlengde:
- 4:30t
The morning after we’d been up the Dent du Geant was spent doing the traverse of the Aiguille d’Entreves since there was some afternoon rain in the weather forecast we’d seen the previous evening. The traverse is supposed to be a half day outing from the Torino hut, so this seemed like a good option before heading back down to Courmayeur and driving back to Evolene. We took a later breakfast this morning at 6am, although I didn’t really notice the extra few hours sleep since I got woken up by an unexpected cough halfway through the night and didn’t sleep much afterward. It was noticeably windier this morning and once we set off after breakfast it became clear that a bit of new snow had fallen during the night! The Dent du Geant was looking whiter than the previous day so the ridge >>>
Dent du Geant
- Dato:
- 15.08.2017
- Turtype:
- Klatring
- Turlengde:
- 7:15t
It’s name pretty much gives the game away. The Dent du Geant/Giant’s Tooth/Dente del Gigante according to one guidebook ”…has bags of exposure and has one of the best and pointiest summits in the Alps”. Definitely a great selling point. Sami had originally suggested climbing this at the weekend, but our trip over to the Torino hut got somewhat postponed because of the dump of new snow at the end of the previous week. But finally we were making our way up to the Torino hut after driving a few hours from Champex-Lac to Courmayeur and I was feeling rather psyched up for the following day’s objective. We arrived in Courmayeur with reasonably good time to catch the Helbronner lift before the last departure and it was around 5pm by the time we’d been ferried all the way up to the Helbronner >>>
Gendarme d'Orny
- Dato:
- 14.08.2017
- Turtype:
- Sportsklatring
- Turlengde:
- 3:00t
Before heading back down to Champex-Lac we took breakfast at the Orny hut at 7am before going out to climb a route called Papa Paye (5b) on Gendarme d'Orny (route 4) but with the 5c+ final pitch of Papa Paye Encore (route 3). Despite my initial scepticism at the start of the climb it actually turned out to be a really enjoyable route, although I was pretty glad I was a) not doing any of the leading and b) not carrying a rucksack.....
After abseiling off the route we walked back down to the Breya chairlift (1 hour-ish) and set course for Courmayeur in Italy from where we'd be hopping onto yet another lift to get up to the Torino hut!
Aiguille d'Orny
- Dato:
- 13.08.2017
- Turtype:
- Klatring
- Turlengde:
- 6:00t
After a partly wet Friday which we used to do yet another via ferrata at Saillon (named Via Farinetta, TD+), Saturday finally brought good weather and it appeared that the weather would remain good until at least Tuesday or Wednesday. However the constant downpours of rain at valley-level had also produced massive dumps of new snow from around 3000m, so even though the good weather was back, the high mountain ridges weren’t necessarily in condition. Fortunately we didn’t have any solid objectives for these 2 weeks so we were essentially free to make plans according to weather and conditions. Aiguille d’Orny became the new objective for Sunday so we did a few single pitch 5a/5b climbs at Dorenaz early on Saturday morning before driving up to Champex-Lac to get the Breya chairlift at 2188m >>>
Grand Perron traverse
- Dato:
- 09.08.2017
- Turtype:
- Klatring
- Turlengde:
- 6:45t
After a day of rain and only having done a quick and easy via ferrata at Nax on Tuesday, the weather forecast for Wednesday looked more promising with the last of the rain and fog supposed to clear in the morning. There was even a chance of seeing sunshine later in the day! However, since bad weather was forecasted again on both Thursday and Friday it seemed like the best option would be to do a day trip. We also made a plan to switch our rest day from Saturday to Thursday so we could make the most of the good weather which was forecasted to be coming at the start of the weekend. With this in mind Sami suggested either doing some rock climbing in the valley or the Grand Perron traverse. Both Linda and I agreed that a high level ridge traverse would be a far more interesting option than valley >>>
Jegigrat
- Dato:
- 12.08.2015
- Turtype:
- Alpin klatring
- Turlengde:
- 9:30t
Final proper climb for this holiday. I’d had a few quiet days in Zermatt while there was thundery wet weather going and we had a quick chat after the weekend to plan where we would head next. Initially we’d thought to finish off with a relatively big objective – the east ridge on the Weisshorn – but after hearing that new snow had been dumped down to at least 3300m as a result of the bad weather it didn’t sound like there would be ideal conditions for doing that route. The visibility in Zermatt was still not good enough to allow for any mountains to be visible so it was difficult to evaluate the conditions up high. So instead our final objective ended up being the Jegigrat, a ridge connecting the Jegihorn and Fletschhorn a little north of the Weissmies hut. The highest top on the >>>
Portjengrat traverse
- Dato:
- 22.08.2014
- Turtype:
- Alpin klatring
- Turlengde:
- 10:30t
Final day of the climbing week. Objective: Portjengrat. This is a ca. 1km long ridge route at alpine AD/AD+ and according to the guidebook, required in the region of 9 hours to complete from the Almageller hut. Originally Terry had proposed that we have breakfast at 3.30am again to leave by 4am, but since the hut wardens weren’t serving breakfast earlier than 5am, it meant that we would aim to leave by 5.30am. Luxury alpine start?(!). I slept incredibly well, despite sharing a small dormitory with approx. 8 or 9 other guys. This has to be the first time EVER I have stayed in an alpine hut with so many guys who DON’T snore! Unbelievable. In a good way :)
The atmosphere round our table at breakfast was somewhat quiet, in contrast to some of the other groups who seemed un-normally chatty for >>>
Dri Hörnli
- Dato:
- 21.08.2014
- Turtype:
- Alpin klatring
- Turlengde:
- 6:00t
After some heavy rain showers during the previous evening, we all woke up to a surprisingly sunny morning in Saas Grund. Turns out the weather was proving to be better than what we’d expected from the forecast. Anyway, we had a decent, laid-back breakfast and got ready to leave at around 10am. The plan for today was to walk up to the Almageller hut, leave behind stuff we didn’t need and then do an afternoon climb on the Dri Horlini (or Dri Hörnli), which is graded at around 4/4+. It was great to be wearing lighter and more flexible boots today too! I had only tested out a pair of Scarpa Rebel Lite goretex boots on one or two hikes before leaving Tromsø, so I hoped they would be equally as comfortable now.
The walk up to the hut starts from Saas Almagell. We saved ourselves one or two hundred >>>
Ettermiddagsklatring på Ersfjorden
- Dato:
- 20.07.2014
- Turtype:
- Sportsklatring
Jeg våknet til en varm og vakker dag men skjønte at jeg faktisk ikke hadde lyst på fjelltur. Rart. Kunne ikke tenke meg hvorfor dette hadde skjedd, men det var uansett en god unnskyldning for å ha en sosial dag med turvenner igjen og hive meg med på en klatreøkt på Ersfjorden.
Elise, Harald, Anne, Renate, Tim og Johanna hadde avtalt om å treffes rundt midt på dagen, så jeg sendte en sms til Elise og sa at jeg ville gjerne henge med og prøve litt klatring, selv om jeg ikke hadde klatret på nesten 3 år (ikke på sommerstid). Tenkte det er alltid verdt et forsøk! Men samtidig hadde jeg ikke klatresko, så jeg var ikke helt på om det ville gå an med å klatre i fjellsko...
Vi gikk inn til klatrefeltet via en delvis bra sti. Den er ganske fin mesteparten av tida hvis du følger vardene! >>>
Spidean a'Choire Leith (George)
- Dato:
- 12.02.2013
- Turtype:
- Alpin klatring
- Turlengde:
- 8:00t
- Distanse:
- 8,0km
Third day of our climbing course up in the northwest highlands, and also supposedly the final day of settled, beautiful weather before rain was going to set in. So to make the most of this, and the excellent snow and ice conditions we'd experienced so far, it was decided that we would head towards Torridon and attempt one of the 'classic' routes called George, which is located in Coire Dubh Mor on the northern side of Liathach.
Since the route was 4-5 pitches long and the drive from Strathcarron would take around 45 minutes it also meant having to drag ourselves out of bed for another early start. But it would probably be worth the effort as the previous two days' trips had proved! So at 7am we were out of the cottage and bundled once again into Ken's van. It felt pretty mild outside, still >>>
