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Peakbook-Friends
Alphubel (Rotgrat)
- Date:
- 18.08.2017
- Characteristic:
- Alpine trip
- Duration:
- 10:30h
Alphubel isn’t one of the most attractive mountains in the Mischabel group (in my opinion) being quite big and rounded. The complete opposite of the Dent du Geant which we’d climbed a few days earlier! Nevertheless its long west ridge (Rotgrat) is one of its redeeming qualities and is described in good detail in Martin Moran’s guidebook for the alpine 4000m peaks. I was looking forward to ending the week with a decent long summit day (1550m from the Täsch hut), so this did to some degree fulfill some of what I’d hoped for. It would also be quite fun to revisit Alphubel, which was actually the first ever 4000m peak I’d ascended 15 years ago when I was 18 just after finishing school. That time we’d done the easy snow plod up the southeast ridge but I don’t remember that the weather had been >>>
Lagginhorn South Ridge
- Date:
- 07.08.2017
- Characteristic:
- Alpine trip
- Duration:
- 7:30h
First route of a two-week trip with Linda who I’d met up with a few days earlier and our Finnish guide Sami who was working for Frost Guiding based in Evolene. The weather forecast wasn’t all that promising for the majority of the week but Monday was supposed to be fairly good with sunny weather. After some discussions about what we’d already done and what sort of routes we wanted to do, we decided to start with the south ridge of the Lagginhorn, a long AD ridge route which was now in good, dry condition after several days of warm and sunny weather. It seemed like a good objective since Linda had done a lot of fairly hard rock climbing in the US but never done any short-roping before on easier grade routes in the Alps. We planned to drive over to Saas Grund on Sunday morning and take >>>
Kyajo Ri
- Date:
- 28.10.2016
- Characteristic:
- Alpine trip
Now we were in Mende and finished with trekking around the mountain to acclimatize. I’m pretty sure we were all feeling ready to start our ascent of Kyajo Ri. Longer days with more load carrying were lined up, which I was both looking forward to and dreading.
Base camp (4500m)
The previous evening had ended on a slightly unfortunate note for Deborah, who for some reason or another seemed to be the only one affected by stomach problems on this trip. I started stressing over the possibility that I might also end up with an unexpected trip to the toilet during the night which fortunately didn’t happen, but there was a lot of tossing and turning for most of the night worrying about it. Deborah was unsurprisingly feeling quite wiped out the next morning and found the steep start up the hill a >>>
Piggtinden
- Date:
- 03.09.2016
- Characteristic:
- Alpine trip
- Duration:
- 8:15h
I tråd med tradisjonen ble det høsttur til en artig fjelltopp på ikke-helt-optimalt føre med Signar. Turvalget landet på Piggtinden siden jeg ikke hadde vært der på noen år og Signar hadde aldri vært der under sommerforhold. Det hadde kommet nysnø på de høyeste toppene dagen før så det var neppe sommerforhold lenger, men likevel var det ikke vinterforhold heller. Noen av mine bekymringer inkluderte bl.a. sleipt fjell og våt innmarsj så jeg var ganske spent på hva som skulle vente oss. Ble en noe tidlig start og vi kjørte fra Tromsdalen litt etter kl.7 under knallblå himmel. Temperaturen lå rundt 0 grader da vi begynte å gå fra startstedet like ved brua i Lakselvdalen!
Innmarsjen var stedvis litt våt men egentlig en ganske fin opplevelse da 'stien' er merket opp til Piggtindskaret. >>>
Petite Dent de Veisivi traverse
- Date:
- 23.08.2016
- Characteristic:
- Alpine trip
- Duration:
- 6:45h
Siste dag på ferie og nok en solskinnsdag uten en eneste sky. Hadde ønsket å sove lenge etter gårsdagens tidlig start, men dette klarte jeg ikke så jeg var ganske trøtt igjen da jeg våknet. Vi hadde snakket med Graham om ulike planer for dagen, en av dem var klatring på Miroir d'Argentine, klatring på Sanetsch eller en ryggtravers over Petite Dent de Veisivi. Richard hadde takket nei til en siste klatredag så det var egentlig opp til meg for å ta en beslutning. Kunne vært fristende å ha en skikkelig klatredag med mindre innmarsj enn på fjelltur, men til slutt var det ryggtraversen som vant. Med en innmarsj på ca.1300hm kun til starten av traversen var det noe tungt etter å ha vært på Dent Blanche dagen før, men jeg regnet med at vi ikke skulle gå så veldg fort og det burde >>>
Dent Blanche
- Date:
- 22.08.2016
- Characteristic:
- Alpine trip
- Duration:
- 8:00h
The Dent Blanche is a fantastic mountain and with its four ridges it is like a perfect pyramidal peak which ought to be next to Ama Dablam in the Himalayas. Interestingly it was also wrongly named on the maps back in the 1800s (I think?) and should have been named the Dent d’Herens since it lies in the Val d’Herens, and the current Dent d’Herens should have been named the Dent Blanche since it is more snow-covered and whiter…. Having now been somewhat fascinated by the sight of the mountain from just about every peak I’d been on since the start of the holiday, I was now pretty excited about the opportunity to actually climb it. I was paired up with another guy Richard for the final three days and he was also keen to do an ascent of the Dent Blanche and was already well acclimatized >>>
Urdkjerringa
- Date:
- 10.10.2015
- Characteristic:
- Alpine trip
- Duration:
- 9:30h
Tidligere i uken hadde jeg snakket med Signar om å gå en litt mer spennende tur i løpet av helgen men turforslag ble ikke luftet før omtrent torsdag kveld. Han hadde lyst på en tur til Urdkjerringa, noe av en lite besøkt topp i Lyngen som han hadde gjort et forsøk på i fjor. Denne gangen hadde han og en annen turkompis prøvd en rute fra vestsida av fjellet uten å lykkes. I helga tenkte vi å gå opp fra østsida som viste seg å være ’normalveien’ ifølge noen andre få folk som hadde vært der før. Var heldig med været også. Det var meldt pent vær, lite vind og relativt mild temperatur. Hadde opprinnelig vurdert å ta første ferga fra Breivikeidet på lørdagen som skulle gå kl.8.10, men det krevde et usosialt tidlig oppmøte i byen som ikke var veldig fristende så vi >>>
Sokse
- Date:
- 20.09.2015
- Characteristic:
- Alpine trip
- Duration:
- 6:30h
Tredje og siste dag på Peakbooktreff II og etter to dager med rufsete vær på fjellet ble vi belønnet med et drømmevær; knallblå himmel, sol og nesten ingen vind. Dagen før hadde mortenh (Morten Helgesen) tipset meg om at senfterberg (coni häusler) skulle ha en tur med innslag av klatring/bratt snø og kanskje jeg ville bli med på den. Jeg hadde opprinnelig tenkt å være med på fellesturen over Urdadalsryggen men denne muligheten virket for godt å la være da jeg skjønte at turen hadde potensial til å bli over gjennomsnitt artig og Morten vet en ting eller to om turer i Jotunheimen ikke sant? ;) Tilfeldigvis traff jeg begge to tidlig på søndagen og snart fant jeg ut at planen var å gå/klatre opp østeggen på Sokse med avgang kl.8 fra Leirvassbu. Da ble det en kjapp frokost på meg og etter å ha fått lånt en hjelm fra Morten >>>
Matterhorn
- Date:
- 06.08.2015
- Characteristic:
- Alpine trip
- Duration:
- 8:30h
Having come down from the Eiger we now needed a new objective since the updated weather forecast seemed to be pretty promising for the next couple of days. Rocio had mentioned she had thought about doing a traverse of the Matterhorn, starting in Italy and finishing on the Swiss side but as a result of the hot temperatures this summer the Italian side of the mountain was recently closed because of rockfall risk. Fortunately the Hörnli ridge on the Swiss side was not. I have to admit that despite knowing about this famous Toblerone mountain since before I was even a teenager it has never been on my to-do list. I’ve heard a lot about how popular the ascent of the mountain is from the Hörnli ridge so anyone wanting to climb it must be able to move more or less continuously from start to finish >>>
Eiger traverse
- Date:
- 03.08.2015
- Characteristic:
- Alpine trip
- Duration:
- 9:00h
After spending a night at the Cosmiques hut, Rocio and I discussed a few of our options in Chamonix. Rocio was keen to get some AD/D graded ridge climbs done and first on the list of possibilities was the Eiger since the heat wave in Europe this summer had now made the Mittellegi ridge in reasonable condition. I had of course done minimal research on the Eiger beforehand but I came here really to just do some decent climbing so if Rocio thought it was worth doing then I was more than happy to go along with it! It looked like Monday was going to be a decent weather day for summiting any peak so ideally we needed to be doing the walk in to a hut the next day. Unfortunately it seemed there were no beds available at the Mittellegi hut on Sunday night. So we needed a new plan. The south ridge on >>>