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Peakbookfreunde
Blåtinden
- Datum:
- 27.08.2017
- Tourcharakter:
- Bergtour
Koselig tur i lag med Tim, Johanna, Jana og Fillippo og Kamila. Artig med nysnø i August pluss en snømann på toppen!
Skamtinden
- Datum:
- 24.08.2017
- Tourcharakter:
- Bergtour
- Tourlänge:
- 2:30h
Etterjobbtur med Martine. Nydelig vær!
Col de Torrent
- Datum:
- 20.08.2017
- Tourcharakter:
- Bergtour
- Tourlänge:
- 4:15h
Tok meg en siste luftetur før reisen tilbake til Geneve. Fulgte skilting fra Evolene og flott sti helt opp til Col de Torrent. Litt under 2,5t opp og 1,5t ned fordelt over 1550hm.
Alphubel (Rotgrat)
- Datum:
- 18.08.2017
- Tourcharakter:
- Hochtour
- Tourlänge:
- 10:30h
Alphubel isn’t one of the most attractive mountains in the Mischabel group (in my opinion) being quite big and rounded. The complete opposite of the Dent du Geant which we’d climbed a few days earlier! Nevertheless its long west ridge (Rotgrat) is one of its redeeming qualities and is described in good detail in Martin Moran’s guidebook for the alpine 4000m peaks. I was looking forward to ending the week with a decent long summit day (1550m from the Täsch hut), so this did to some degree fulfill some of what I’d hoped for. It would also be quite fun to revisit Alphubel, which was actually the first ever 4000m peak I’d ascended 15 years ago when I was 18 just after finishing school. That time we’d done the easy snow plod up the southeast ridge but I don’t remember that the weather had been >>>
Aiguille d'Entreves
- Datum:
- 16.08.2017
- Tourcharakter:
- Klettern
- Tourlänge:
- 4:30h
The morning after we’d been up the Dent du Geant was spent doing the traverse of the Aiguille d’Entreves since there was some afternoon rain in the weather forecast we’d seen the previous evening. The traverse is supposed to be a half day outing from the Torino hut, so this seemed like a good option before heading back down to Courmayeur and driving back to Evolene. We took a later breakfast this morning at 6am, although I didn’t really notice the extra few hours sleep since I got woken up by an unexpected cough halfway through the night and didn’t sleep much afterward. It was noticeably windier this morning and once we set off after breakfast it became clear that a bit of new snow had fallen during the night! The Dent du Geant was looking whiter than the previous day so the ridge >>>
Dent du Geant
- Datum:
- 15.08.2017
- Tourcharakter:
- Klettern
- Tourlänge:
- 7:15h
It’s name pretty much gives the game away. The Dent du Geant/Giant’s Tooth/Dente del Gigante according to one guidebook ”…has bags of exposure and has one of the best and pointiest summits in the Alps”. Definitely a great selling point. Sami had originally suggested climbing this at the weekend, but our trip over to the Torino hut got somewhat postponed because of the dump of new snow at the end of the previous week. But finally we were making our way up to the Torino hut after driving a few hours from Champex-Lac to Courmayeur and I was feeling rather psyched up for the following day’s objective. We arrived in Courmayeur with reasonably good time to catch the Helbronner lift before the last departure and it was around 5pm by the time we’d been ferried all the way up to the Helbronner >>>
Gendarme d'Orny
- Datum:
- 14.08.2017
- Tourcharakter:
- Sportklettern
- Tourlänge:
- 3:00h
Before heading back down to Champex-Lac we took breakfast at the Orny hut at 7am before going out to climb a route called Papa Paye (5b) on Gendarme d'Orny (route 4) but with the 5c+ final pitch of Papa Paye Encore (route 3). Despite my initial scepticism at the start of the climb it actually turned out to be a really enjoyable route, although I was pretty glad I was a) not doing any of the leading and b) not carrying a rucksack.....
After abseiling off the route we walked back down to the Breya chairlift (1 hour-ish) and set course for Courmayeur in Italy from where we'd be hopping onto yet another lift to get up to the Torino hut!
Aiguille d'Orny
- Datum:
- 13.08.2017
- Tourcharakter:
- Klettern
- Tourlänge:
- 6:00h
After a partly wet Friday which we used to do yet another via ferrata at Saillon (named Via Farinetta, TD+), Saturday finally brought good weather and it appeared that the weather would remain good until at least Tuesday or Wednesday. However the constant downpours of rain at valley-level had also produced massive dumps of new snow from around 3000m, so even though the good weather was back, the high mountain ridges weren’t necessarily in condition. Fortunately we didn’t have any solid objectives for these 2 weeks so we were essentially free to make plans according to weather and conditions. Aiguille d’Orny became the new objective for Sunday so we did a few single pitch 5a/5b climbs at Dorenaz early on Saturday morning before driving up to Champex-Lac to get the Breya chairlift at 2188m >>>
Grand Perron traverse
- Datum:
- 09.08.2017
- Tourcharakter:
- Klettern
- Tourlänge:
- 6:45h
After a day of rain and only having done a quick and easy via ferrata at Nax on Tuesday, the weather forecast for Wednesday looked more promising with the last of the rain and fog supposed to clear in the morning. There was even a chance of seeing sunshine later in the day! However, since bad weather was forecasted again on both Thursday and Friday it seemed like the best option would be to do a day trip. We also made a plan to switch our rest day from Saturday to Thursday so we could make the most of the good weather which was forecasted to be coming at the start of the weekend. With this in mind Sami suggested either doing some rock climbing in the valley or the Grand Perron traverse. Both Linda and I agreed that a high level ridge traverse would be a far more interesting option than valley >>>
Lagginhorn South Ridge
- Datum:
- 07.08.2017
- Tourcharakter:
- Hochtour
- Tourlänge:
- 7:30h
First route of a two-week trip with Linda who I’d met up with a few days earlier and our Finnish guide Sami who was working for Frost Guiding based in Evolene. The weather forecast wasn’t all that promising for the majority of the week but Monday was supposed to be fairly good with sunny weather. After some discussions about what we’d already done and what sort of routes we wanted to do, we decided to start with the south ridge of the Lagginhorn, a long AD ridge route which was now in good, dry condition after several days of warm and sunny weather. It seemed like a good objective since Linda had done a lot of fairly hard rock climbing in the US but never done any short-roping before on easier grade routes in the Alps. We planned to drive over to Saas Grund on Sunday morning and take >>>
