Ymmelstinden Storjuvtinden Galdhøpiggen Traverse (12.08.2024)

It was the first time for me climbing here in Norway. Bering used to the Alps I didn't initially expect much from such low mountains. But boy was I corrected. We started at around 9 from spittersulen, direction Svellnosbrean glacier. Got there in approximately two hours. Crossing the glacier took about 1.5 hours. Having snowed the days before navigating thought crevasses was not as straightforward as I imagined.

Climbing ymmelstind we followed the clear ridge. It's presents some good rock, the only one we found in this traverse.
Traversing from ymmelstind to Storjuvtinden was harder than expected. The north exposed side of the mountain was covered with brittle slippery snow. Climbing this short section (25mt) was quite hard (I would give the passage a 5a french), but in dry conditions I wouldn't expect to find clear difficulties.

Three rappels are necessary to descent to the galhøpiggen ridge. The standst are easily findable and anchors were in good conditions. A 50 Mt rope is enough (last abseil would be 30 Mt but the last meters are easily climbable). From here on the ridge towards Galdhøpiggen is funny and easy. I imagine you could also skip the first two peaks and get to the start of the ridge by hiking up to morene, yet a lot of loose rocks are present.

Happily at the top after 8 hours we got the change to fly to valley with our paraglider. A great tour in alpine conditions. Thanks Norway
Equipment used: standard glacier equipment, a few slings, 50mt single rope, 0.4 and 0.5 friends