Mawenzi Midpoint

Name	Mawenzi Midpoint
Search name	Mawenzi Midpoint
Type	View west
Elevation	5,710 meter
Region	Tanzania
Parent regions	Africa
Adviser	admin (Administrator)
Last modification	29.01.2023

Coordinates	37M 328031 9658276 (UTM)
Map	Show object on map

Content	Introduction \| Getting there \| Historical Background \| External links \| Literature and references \| Other pictures \| Trip Reports \| User comments
Language	Norwegian English
Adviser	none
Statistics	Register visit of Mawenzi Midpoint. One member has registered one visit of Mawenzi Midpoint.

Map

Pictures

Mawenzi in slightly cloudy weather. The plateau at which the arrow points, is the Mawenzi Midpoint. Hans Meyer Peak might be glimpsed up in the clouds.

The view from the Mawenzi Midpoint over the saddle between Mawenzi and Kilimanjaro on a rather cloudy day.

The mountainside above the Mawenzi Midpoint is rather steep...

...but there is a narrow chute that should provide a way further up. That is, however, prohibited, without the use of climbing gear.

Introduction

The Mawenzi Midpoint is a viewpoint about 450 elevation metres below the summit of Mawenzi. Hitherto, but not further, are the guides and the tour operators of Kilimanjaro allowed to take you without climbing gear and without technical climbing skills. In order to advance beyond this point, however, climbing gear as well as climbing experience is required.

Getting there

The Mawenzi Midpoint is most easily reached from the Rongai Route via the Mawenzi Tarn Hut, or from the Marangu Route via the Mawenzi Hut. If the Marangu Route is used, one may sleep over in one of the huts at Mandara, as well as at Horombo; whereas a tent has to be used at the Mawenzi Hut. If the Rongai Route is used, a tent has to be used at all the camp sites, including at the Mawenzi Tarn Hut. It should be noted that only a small proportion of the Kilimanjaro guides know the way up to the Mawenzi Midpoint, and a detour to this viewpoint should therefore be agreed upon at the time of booking your Kilimanjaro hike.

Historical Background

Due to a number of climbing accidents resulting in fatalities, the Kilimanjaro National Park prohibited climbing on Mawenzi in the early 21st century. There has, however, been a great demand from climbers who desire to ascend the mountain, and in 2017 the park authorities again started allowing ascensions; though quite strict regulations have been put in place to ensure the safety of climbers. The following regulations have been extracted from a pdf-file that may be downloaded from the web-site of the park authorities:

Tour Operator Requirements

A valid Mountain TTLB license [TTLB = Tanzanian Tourism Licensing Board].
A clean business record.
Technical climbing guides.
The tour operator should submit an application letter with attached technical climbing CVs of the clients to the Chief Park Warden.

Requirements for the Climbers

Only experienced rock climbers shall attempt Mawenzi technical climb.
Briefing will be conducted by guide prior to departure.
Tour operator shall provide a first aid kit for the Mawenzi climbers.
Tour operator shall have a reliable communication system and rescue/emergence response plan.
Visitors must have the following technical climbing mountain gears: Long Slings, medium length slings, carabiners, rappel device, 60m 8.5mm ropes, alpine harness, locking carabiners, climbing boots, helmets, Ice axes and crampons.
Only one group of two climbers at a time are allowed to climb the peak of Mawenzi. Mountain technical climbers shall be careful to avoid accidents.
All climbers should adhere with all other park rules and regulations.
Minimum age allowed in the activities shall of or above 18 years old.

The same document further specifies that climbing on Mawenzi is only allowed between 6:00 a.m. and 6:00 p.m. A special fee for climbing on Mawenzi must be paid to Tanzania National Parks. The size of this fee was USD 750 as of November 2022 (I’ve seen the price list). Prior to climbing the climbers must fill in and sign a form where they declare that the climb on Mawenzi is at their own risk. In the document it is further emphasised that rock scrambling is prohibited, and rock scrambling is then defined as climbing on a rock formation more than 10 feet above its base without the use of proper climbing gear.

Further Information
It has been claimed that there are currently no mountain guides in Tanzania with technical climbing education, and until now it has therefore been almost impossible to book Mawenzi climbs with the tour operators. Mountain guides with this kind of experience does exist in Kenya, however, and it is even possible to acquire such education in Kenya. I have tried to encourage a Tanzanian mountain guide that I know to go to Kenya to get such education, and he actually had the motivation to do that. Such things do cost money, however, and are not done in the twinkling of an eye.