Trekking the Simien Mountains of Ethiopia (23.11.2018)


Start point Drop of Point close to Buyit Ras (3,100m)
Endpoint Chenneck Camp Site (3,625m)
Characteristic Hike
Duration 51h 28min
Distance 36.9km
Vertical meters 12,827m
GPS
Ascents Enatye (4,070m) 23.11.2018
Gogo (3,927m) 23.11.2018
Visits of other PBEs Chennek (3,625m) 23.11.2018
#1: The summits of Enatye, Shayno Sefer and Imet Gogo as seen from Mount Bwahit.
#1: The summits of Enatye, Shayno Sefer and Imet Gogo as seen from Mount Bwahit.

Working for two and a half week in a health care project in Addis Ababa, and then go mountain trekking immediately afterwards, is genius. Addis Ababa is located about 2400 m.a.m.s.l. (depending a little on where in the city you are), and with a little amount of training while there, you do get exactly the altitude adaption that you need to better enjoy your hike in the higher mountains after your stay in Addis. Not many of us can afford to take two and a half week off from work just for elevation acclimation, and then be another week and a half away from work while mountain trekking; hence when I had the opportunity to be in Addis Ababa this long "at work", I had to grab the chance. I had my wife with me on this trip. She had some remaining vacation left over, that she hadn't used during summer. She arrived in Addis a week after me, and so she had only a week there prior to embarking on the real altitude. I had figured that 8-9 days in Addis should've been sufficient altitude adaption for her to cope well with the elevation of the Simiens, but there I was wrong.

Flying to Gonder. #2: In the domestic terminal at Bole International Airport in Addis waiting for fligth ET168 to take us to Gonder. #3: A beautiful twilight as seen through the windows in the Dash 8 Q400 aircraft. #4: At Gonder Airport.
Flying to Gonder. #2: In the domestic terminal at Bole International Airport in Addis waiting for fligth ET168 to take us to Gonder. #3: A beautiful twilight as seen through the windows in the Dash 8 Q400 aircraft. #4: At Gonder Airport.

We flew from Addis Ababa to Gondar, which is located in the north west of the country, in a Dash 8 Q400 from Ethiopian Airlines. We took off from Addis just at twilight, and I captured some nice twilight pictures through the aircraft window during our flight; but when we landed in Gonder, it was completely dark. At the airport we were picked up by Dave (Dawit Yohannes) of Ras Dejen Tours, with whom I had been in contact when booking our hike in the Simien Mountains. Dave had also been helpful and booked a room for us in one of the newest hotels in the town of Gonder; and in addition he now met us at the airport and drove us in his car to our hotel in the center of the town.

In Debark. #5: Dave's office. #6: The National Park Office where you have to register before you can enter the park. In the lower right corner Dave's Toyota Hiace may be seen.
In Debark. #5: Dave's office. #6: The National Park Office where you have to register before you can enter the park. In the lower right corner Dave's Toyota Hiace may be seen.

Day 1

After a nice breakfast at the hotel, our trip went north to Debark in Dave's Toyota Hiace. Dave is running a little company that arranges hikes in the Simien Mountains. He has a little office in Debark (Image #5), just across the road from the Simien Mountains National Park's main office in Debark, where you anyway have to register, and pay an entrance fee, before you can enter into the park. Dave has another two Toyota Hiaces, and in addition two Toyota Landcruisers. The latter ones are used when driving far into the national park, as the road in there is unpaved and a bit lousy at places; and it's not good to go there using a Hiace. From Debark we were now driving into the mountains. The arrangements were professional. With us in the car was our guide Tadlo, an armed ranger to protect us from robbers and wild animals, a chef that was going to cook for us during our trip, a "dish-washer", that seemed to be some sort of an apprentice with the chef; and then there was the driver of the Landcruiser, in addition to myself and my wife. At the entrance to the National Park a ranger controlled that we had the necessary permits, and then we continued our climb into the mountains. At 3260 m.a.m.s.l. we passed the Simien Lodge, a luxury hotel that claims to be the highest located hotel in Africa.

#7: Map showing the path of our trek. The first day we trekked from our drop-off point where the driver dropped us off, to the first camp site, which is called Sankaber. Next day we carried on to Gich, which was the second camp site. A substantial part of the trek went along the steep escarpment between the mountains and the lower "Lowland" beneath it, and we visited a number of beautiful viewpoints along the route; but only on the third day did we summit any mountain peaks, namely Imet Gogo (3926 m.a.m.s.l.) and Enatye (4070 m.a.m.s.l.). The third night we camped at the Chennek camp site, which is the third camp site from the entrance of the park.
#7: Map showing the path of our trek. The first day we trekked from our drop-off point where the driver dropped us off, to the first camp site, which is called Sankaber. Next day we carried on to Gich, which was the second camp site. A substantial part of the trek went along the steep escarpment between the mountains and the lower "Lowland" beneath it, and we visited a number of beautiful viewpoints along the route; but only on the third day did we summit any mountain peaks, namely Imet Gogo (3926 m.a.m.s.l.) and Enatye (4070 m.a.m.s.l.). The third night we camped at the Chennek camp site, which is the third camp site from the entrance of the park.

We were asked whether we would like to hike for one, two or three hours on this first afternoon; as they were having three alternative drop off spots, one for each answer to that question. We figured it was wise to use the opportunity to get as much used to the elevation as possible, and so we answered "three hours". Shortly afterwards the driver stopped at the first of the alternative drop-offs, and we stepped out of the car. The spot was even a beloved viewpoint, and there were both cars and buses that had stopped there in order to let their tourists enjoy the beautiful view, and at the same time have a stretch of their legs. The trek from here to Sankaber is about 8 km we were told, and so we started walking. The path that we were following winded its way along a rather steep escarpment, with a beautiful landscape beneath, that our guide and our ranger referred to as the lowland. Our route was at the same time a bit hilly, so we alternately walked a bit upwards and downwards; and once or twice every hour, we past a viewpoint with an amazing view. The view at each viewpoint was pretty much identical to the view at the previous viewpoint; hence even though the landscape was indeed very fascinating, it could sure feel a bit monotone in the long run.

#8: There's a steep escarpment along the north side of the Simien Mountains. The path here is located about 3200 m.a.m.s.l., whereas the "lowland" beneath is located about 2000 m.a.m.s.l. #9: As we were trekking, a number of Gelada monkeys suddenly popped up around us. This species is distinctive of the Simien Mountains. It used to be regarded as a baboon, but after a change of the classification some years ago, it is now considered a distinctive species. The correct name, therefore, is ''Gelada Monkey,'' and no longer ''Gelada Baboon.'' #10 The elevation, and the thin air, made it necessary to have a break every now and then, especially when trekking uphill.
#8: There's a steep escarpment along the north side of the Simien Mountains. The path here is located about 3200 m.a.m.s.l., whereas the "lowland" beneath is located about 2000 m.a.m.s.l. #9: As we were trekking, a number of Gelada monkeys suddenly popped up around us. This species is distinctive of the Simien Mountains. It used to be regarded as a baboon, but after a change of the classification some years ago, it is now considered a distinctive species. The correct name, therefore, is ''Gelada Monkey,'' and no longer ''Gelada Baboon.'' #10 The elevation, and the thin air, made it necessary to have a break every now and then, especially when trekking uphill.

We had not trekked very long, before my wife started feeling an element of altitude sickness. We had expected the air to be thin, and we had prepared ourselves for some shortness of breath; hence it was no surprise to us that we had to reduce the pace of our trekking. The awful nausea that came sneaking was much worse to cope with, however; and when we had our lunch break, a banana was the only thing she managed to eat from the lunch package that the chef had prepared. I took care not to touch my own banana, so that she could eventually have that one as well later on. Fortunately, we had brought with us some plates of chocolate from Norway, and she was able to squeeze down some pieces of milk chocolate. The 8 km took us 5 hours, and not 3, but the nature was picturesque, and the view magnificent; it's just a pity that it was so difficult for my wife to enjoy it. The road is running parallel to the tourist trail in this part of the park; and a few places you actually walk on the road for 50 or 100 meters. One of this places we encountered a flock of Gelada monkeys. These monkeys are distinctive for the Simien mountains; and doesn't exist anywhere else. Finally, we came to a rather steep downhill segment of the trail, where we could see the rooftops of the buildings at the Sankaber camp site. When we arrived at the camp site, our tent was already up, and the chef had prepared tea and coffee for us. We were not the only mountain trekkers in Sankaber. The camp site was covered with twin tents and triple tents all over, and there was a multitude of tourists, speaking various languages; and then there was the Ethiopian staff that was there to take care of the tourists, and ensure everybody had what they needed. It seemed like every group had a guide, a ranger, a chef and a dish washer just like we had; though I've later been told that the size of the staff is varying with the size of the group; hence a group of 20 tourists would be accompanied by at least 3 rangers and I don't know how many chefs. A little bit later dinner was served, of which I ate quite a lot, whereas my wife was unable to eat much of, due to her altitude sickness. I regretted bitterly that I hadn't purchased some Diamox, or Acetazolamide, to treat her altitude sickness, but it was too late to get something like that now. Darkness came very quickly after sunset, so we went to sleep in our tent already at seven.

The mattresses that the tour operator, i.e. Dave, provided were relatively thin. Fortunately, we had with us sleeping pads, or camping mats that we used in addition. The sleeping pads are relatively hard, but they insulate quite good against cold from the ground. We laid our sleeping pads on top of the thin mattresses, so that the pads provided insulation, whereas the mattresses provided some additional softness, and then we had it quite comfortable inside our sleeping bags throughout the night. We had not yet fallen asleep when the dishwasher appeared in the tent opening with a hot water bottle to each of us, and this allowed us to regain some heat after creeping into our sleeping bags.

#11: After a few hours of walking, we got Sankaber, our first camp site, in sight. #12: Upon arrival in the camp, we were served tea and coffee on a portable table in front of our tent. #13: It's quite cold at night at this altitude, especially in the dry season. The next morning, there was frost on the grass around the tents.
#11: After a few hours of walking, we got Sankaber, our first camp site, in sight. #12: Upon arrival in the camp, we were served tea and coffee on a portable table in front of our tent. #13: It's quite cold at night at this altitude, especially in the dry season. The next morning, there was frost on the grass around the tents.

Day 2

The next morning, we woke up long before sunrise. It's quite cold at this altitude, even in Africa, and especially so when it's dry season / winter. We had no desire to get out of our sleeping bags, therefore, but then the need to go to the toilet kind of forced us out of bed. Outside the tent there was frost in the grass. We were not the only ones awake in the camp. In the kitchen hut the chefs of the various groups were already preparing breakfast, and within half an hour, the camp came more and more into life, as even the other tourists were getting up and out of their tents. We had some oatmeal porridge, and some scrambled eggs for breakfast, then brushed our teeth, and started trekking again. You don't have to carry much when you're trekking in the Simien Mountains. Part of the concept of the tour operators is that the tent, food, and luggage, is all carried on mules from one camp site to the next; and the only thing you need to carry yourself is therefor lunch and water for the day, sunscreen / solar protection, toilet paper, photo equipment, and anything else that you prefer to have available as you're trekking, such as headache pills and whatever you thing you're going to need during the hours of trekking. We never actually saw the mules carrying our stuff as we were trekking, as the mules, the mule drivers, the chef, and the dishwasher always took a shorter way, and always arrived in the next camp ahead of us, allowing them to prepare our tent and our dinner before we got there.

#14: View from Nigus Aysimush towards the lowland. The mountain ridge closest to us is Gidir Got. In the background is seen Hawaza, Amba Toloka and Amba Ton. #15 and #16: View towards Gidir Got.
#14: View from Nigus Aysimush towards the lowland. The mountain ridge closest to us is Gidir Got. In the background is seen Hawaza, Amba Toloka and Amba Ton. #15 and #16: View towards Gidir Got.

The first part of the second day went relatively well, even for my wife, who was still suffering from altitude sickness. The terrain was even here a bit hilly, but not in such a manner that she couldn't manage. The view towards the "lowland" of about 2000 meters elevation was just as nice as it had been the day before, and the vegetation was pretty much the same. After about one and a half hours trek, we came to a relatively steep downhill part of the trail, bringing us down from about 3300 m.a.m.s.l., to about 3100 m.a.m.s.l.; and then Tadlo, our guide, led us along a narrow path to a viewpoint, where you could look over at an amazing waterfall on the other side of a deep, deep gorge, that I've later learned is called the Gich Gorge. The Jinbar Waterfall was more than 500 meters high, we were told. At the moment there wasn't that much water in it, but during the rainy season, we were told, there was much more water in the river, and the waterfall was the even more spectacular.

#17: A bushbuck hiding in the vegetation. #18: Beholding the Jinbar waterfall. #19: The more than 500 meter high waterfall on the Jinbar river. #20: A short break at the Deche Nedala viewpoint, where you have an amazing view of the Jinbar waterfall. #21: View from the road just across the waterfall. From this point you may see a beautiful little pond in the river, just above the waterfall. #22: A local flower usually called "Hot Red Poker".
#17: A bushbuck hiding in the vegetation. #18: Beholding the Jinbar waterfall. #19: The more than 500 meter high waterfall on the Jinbar river. #20: A short break at the Deche Nedala viewpoint, where you have an amazing view of the Jinbar waterfall. #21: View from the road just across the waterfall. From this point you may see a beautiful little pond in the river, just above the waterfall. #22: A local flower usually called "Hot Red Poker".

From the Deche Nedala viewpoint, we had to climb a very steep slope, to get back up to about 3250 meters; and it was this particular climb that became troublesome for my wife. We did climb at a very slow pace, aware that it was her pace that we had to follow, and yet she immediately started to feel the altitude sickness again. Headache, shortness of breath, and once again this intense nausea that wouldn't let go. Fortunately, she had been able to eat a banana or two back at the viewpoint opposite the waterfall; as throughout the rest of the day she was unable to eat anything, apart from some chocolate pieces and a little, sour orange that the chef had sent with us as part of the lunch package. Up in the mountain side we finally came to the car road that goes through the park, which we followed for a little less than 2 km up to about 3300 m.a.m.s.l.; before we left the road once again, and embarked upon a trail that led us into the Jinbar Valley. We reached the bottom of the valley at 3200 meters, then crossed the Jinbar river, which a bit further down forms the waterfall that we had been admiring about three hours earlier. We next started climbing the other side of the valley towards Gich, a spot at which there was a village with about 450 inhabitants until about to years ago, Tadlo could tell us. The village had been there long before the national park was established, but the inhabitants were having cattle, and with a growing population and growing herds of cattle, overgrazing had become a problem; and the authorities had therefor built new houses for the inhabitants outside of the national park, and then they had forced them to move. This move had sure not just been of benefit for the villagers, but it had probably been necessary to secure the future of the park. The only thing remaining of the village of Gich was some old dry stone walls in the terrain, probably built to make the cattle follow the trail out to the pastures, and not start eating from the crops around the village. The Gich camp site is located a bit further up in the mountain side, at about 3620 m.a.m.s.l.. Shortly before we reached the camp, we met the chef. We had used quite some time on this days leg, so the chef had started wondering where we were, and so he had gone out of the camp in order to look for us. A short time later dinner was served. I ate well, but my wife didn't manage to eat much. We were now at an elevation about 400 meters higher than what we had been the previous night, and that sure didn't cure her altitude sickness. The trip had taken most of the day, and darkness was now quickly ensuing. There wasn't much to do in this camp, so we went early to bed even this second evening; maybe even hoping that a good nights sleep would alleviate my wife's altitude sickness at least a little.

#23: By a smaller waterfall a little further up the Jinbar river. #24: A closer look at the smaller waterfall. #25: Voahangy a little bit above the Jinbar river. #26) The ranger and my wife climbing the last little part of the path up to the Gich camp site. #27: Sunset at the Gich camp site. #28: Moonlight above the kitchen hut at the Gich camp site.
#23: By a smaller waterfall a little further up the Jinbar river. #24: A closer look at the smaller waterfall. #25: Voahangy a little bit above the Jinbar river. #26) The ranger and my wife climbing the last little part of the path up to the Gich camp site. #27: Sunset at the Gich camp site. #28: Moonlight above the kitchen hut at the Gich camp site.

Day 3

The next morning the chef served porridge and freshly made pancakes. I was eating to heart's delight, and my wife actually managed to have a couple of pancakes with honey upon. She dreaded this days leg, however, as it was both longer and harder than the ones we had trekked on the previous two days. Nevertheless, we embarked upon our hike as soon as we had finished eating and brushing our teeth. There is no road going to the Gich camp site, so there actually weren't many ways to move on from there, apart from by foot. The first part of this days hike was in a northeast direction to the summit of Imet Gogo, which is located 3927 m.a.m.s.l. While we were still heading for Gogo, our guide Tadlo all of a sudden stopped at a spot where the trail spit in two, looked very serious at us, and suggested we skip Imet Gogo, and rather take the path to the right, which was a shortcut to Enatye, a mountain that we were anyway going to climb later on this day. I wasn't very keen on dropping a mountain peak, but my wife, who was just as tormented by altitude sickness today as she had been the previous day, was indeed very keen on shortening this days leg a bit if that was possible. Tadlo and the ranger then suggested a compromise, and so my wife and the ranger took the shortcut to the right, while I and Tadlo went quickly up to Imet Gogo. The view from Imet Gogo is supposed to be spectaular, but large clouds were tumbling up from the lowland east of the summit, so we only got some intermittent glimpses of the view.

#29: On our way up to Imet Gogo. Between the summits of Gogo (3927) and Shayno Sefer (3962) there is a deep gorge. [The steep sides of the gorge is actually part of the escarpment between the mountains and the lowland, and the floor of the gorge is part of the lowland]. #30: The summit of Imet Gogo. #31: Me and Tadlo on top of Gogo. A nice young lady from Paris captured this photo of us.
#29: On our way up to Imet Gogo. Between the summits of Gogo (3927) and Shayno Sefer (3962) there is a deep gorge. [The steep sides of the gorge is actually part of the escarpment between the mountains and the lowland, and the floor of the gorge is part of the lowland]. #30: The summit of Imet Gogo. #31: Me and Tadlo on top of Gogo. A nice young lady from Paris captured this photo of us.

We didn't stay long on top of Gogo, we just shot a few pictures, and then there was this young lady in a group of French tourists that captured a picture of me and Tadlo on the summit. We started jogging down from Imet Gogo, and so we passed a number of tourist groups that had visited the summit of Gogo just as we had. The trail that we were now following led into the Jinbar valley between Gogo and Shayno Sefer. In the north east there's a deep gorge between these mountains (See image #29), whereas further to the west, there's just the valley with the Jinbar river, the river that eventually forms the high waterfall that we had seen the previous day; and the trail that we were now following was actually running along the escarpment between the Jinbar valley and the deep gorge east of it (Se image #1 and interactive Peakbook map). I had just started wondering how it was going to be when our trail met the shortcut that my wife and the ranger had taken: Are they going to be ahead of us, so that we'll have to speed up a bit to catch up with them; or are they going to be behind us, so that we'll have to stop and wait for them? Just as I was asking myself these questions, however, they suddenly popped up on our right hand side, just where the two trails met; and so I didn't have to worry any more about that problem.

#32: View towards Mount Silki, but poor view of the lowland and the valley between Gogo and Silki on this particular morning. #33: Shayno Sefer (3962) closest, and Enatye/Inatye (4070) behind it. The clouds to the left were blocking the view towards Ras Dashen, the highest mountain of Ethiopia. #34: A slightly closer zoom-up of Enatye.
#32: View towards Mount Silki, but poor view of the lowland and the valley between Gogo and Silki on this particular morning. #33: Shayno Sefer (3962) closest, and Enatye/Inatye (4070) behind it. The clouds to the left were blocking the view towards Ras Dashen, the highest mountain of Ethiopia. #34: A slightly closer zoom-up of Enatye.

Tadlo had in advance warned us, that on this day there was going to be a descent of about 300 elevation meters from Imet Gogo into the Jinbar valley, and then a climb of about 400 elevation meters to reach the summit of Enatye. While trekking we had on this day, as well as on the previous day, received multiple offerings for my wife to ride on a mule. Unemployment is quite high in the area, and it actually seemed to be a welcome extra income for some of the local villagers to offer a mule ride to those they could see were struggling with the mountain trek. And now that the altitude sickness made the climb up to Enatye look like a nightmare for my wife, I had already allowed Tadlo to make an agreement with a mule driver that she should climb onto his mule once we embarked upon ascending Enatye. This cost about 800 Ethiopian Birr [i.e. about € 33 or $ 40 at the time]. And so we did. As soon as we reached the bottom of the Jinbar valley, Tadlo, the ranger, and the mule driver helped my wife onto the mule; and now we could increase our pace a little, though not too much, as the trail was muddy and slippery in the lower part of the Jinbar Valley, and then quite stony higher up in the mountain side of Shayno Sefer and Enatye. My wife was still feeling ill, but riding a mule is nevertheless easier than having to walk in such a situation.

#35: My wife on a mule high up in the Jinbar valley between Gogo and Enatye. #36: On our way towards the summit of Enatye. #37: Lunch-break on top of Enatye.
#35: My wife on a mule high up in the Jinbar valley between Gogo and Enatye. #36: On our way towards the summit of Enatye. #37: Lunch-break on top of Enatye.

It didn't take us very long to reach the summit of Enatye, and once we were there, it was lunch time; not only for us, but even for a number of other tourist groups that were making the same journey. Now we had only a descent of about 450 elevation meters to get down to the Chennek camp site, where we were going to spend the next few nights. The first part of the descent was uneventful. My wife sat once again on the back of the mule, and Tadlo went beside her and supported her, so as to prevent her from falling down. Eventually, however, we came to a slope too steep for the mule to continue; and then my wife had to step down from the mule, and continue the journey by foot. I payed the mule driver, and satisfied he embarked on the journey back to his home village. We continued down the steep slopes towards Chenneck. This camp site is, just like the Gich camp, located at about 3620 m.a.m.s.l. Our tent was already up when we arrived at the camp, and soon we were having both tea and coffee; and after a while even dinner. This camp is very idyllically located by a beautiful little river, but the toilet facilities are poor, hence people tend to use the surrounding woodland as a toilet, and this does sure put a damper upon the experience as a whole. Nevertheless, the camp is located just a few meters from the escarpment that separates the mountains from the lowland, and a walk over to a spectacular viewpoint on the edge of the escarpment doesn't take more than 5 minutes. In this camp and its surroundings, we were going to see vultures, gelada monkeys, and walia ibexes over the next few days.

#38: Mountain Sheep in the mountain side of mount Enatye. #39: Descending from Enatye towards the Chennek camp site. #40: A soda water break shortly before arrival at Chennek.
#38: Mountain Sheep in the mountain side of mount Enatye. #39: Descending from Enatye towards the Chennek camp site. #40: A soda water break shortly before arrival at Chennek.

A short distance up the mountain side of Enatye, the GPS tracking app on my cellphone stopped working, and unfortunately, I didn't notice it right there and then. Only when we were descending towards Chennek, did I notice that the distance recorded had been standing on 10.75 km for quite a long time. I turned off, and then on again the location recording of my cellphone; and then the app started tracking our hike again as it is supposed to do. Nevertheless, this means that I'm lacking a central part of this days GPS-tracking. I have later reconstructed the lost part of this gpx file, so that at least the tracking curve on the map is correct (see image #42). The number of plots, however, is not as many as it should have been, hence the timeline for this part of the tracking is not accurate, and I'm not very happy with this. I decided there and then to buy myself a hand-held, separate GPS device. Regardless of whether the blame should be put on my cellphone or on the tracking app, I find it unsatisfactory to rely on something that could fail me in the middle of an important mountain hike.

#41: From the green arrow over to the blue arrow the tracking app of my cellphone was without GPS-registering. #42: I have, on basis of maps and sattellite images reconstructed the gpx-file so that the tracking curve is now showing where we were actually trekking. The time that we had used was preserved in the original gpx file, but the real distance might be a bit longer than what is registered, as I only created enough GPS plots to get a somewhat nice-looking curve on the map; meaning that the track might have been strightened out a bit when compared to how it would have been if the app had been properly while we were trekking this trail.
#41: From the green arrow over to the blue arrow the tracking app of my cellphone was without GPS-registering. #42: I have, on basis of maps and sattellite images reconstructed the gpx-file so that the tracking curve is now showing where we were actually trekking. The time that we had used was preserved in the original gpx file, but the real distance might be a bit longer than what is registered, as I only created enough GPS plots to get a somewhat nice-looking curve on the map; meaning that the track might have been strightened out a bit when compared to how it would have been if the app had been properly while we were trekking this trail.

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