Hamarøyskaftet (27.06.2020)
| Start point | Halsenveien (217m) |
|---|---|
| Endpoint | Hamarøyskaftet (209m) |
| Characteristic | Alpine climbing |
| Duration | 8h 39min |
| Distance | 9.4km |
| Vertical meters | 463m |
| GPS |
|
| Ascents | Hamarøyskaftet (613m) | 27.06.2020 |
|---|
I first saw Hamarøyskaftet from a plane on the way to Tromsø, and ever since then have hoped to climb it. I did a fair amount of research before setting off, and found the report written by Olepetter (Ole-Petter Andersen) very helpful :)
After parking along Halsnesveien we followed a nice path until the route began at a shallow diedral. The path up was pretty logical, and soon we came to the first section of climbing, a layback along a thin crack. From here it was a short walk until the next steep section, a steep gully. The gully had good hand holds and wouldn´t be a problem for anyone comfortable with klyving. The path became more difficult to follow after this, and we came to what we thought was the third pitch, a relatively okay layback.
After heading past this pitch, we came to the real third pitch, the real layback pitch. This pitch looked a lot easier than it was, and the layback with slippery feet was a challenge on lead. From here we continued until we came to another steep gully. I tried to climb this first without placing any protection, but the upper part was without good hand holds and decided to climb it protected. After this we came soon to the last section of climbing, a steep vertical piece of stone parallell with the wall. Olepetter (Ole-Petter Andersen) placed a stone here that would work as nut if anyone wished to put a sling around it. The climbing was too insecure for me, with no real hand or foot holds, and I had to aid it by putting a sling around the stone. With the extra foot hold I could pull myself up by crimping on a side hold. I think mantalling here is the best answer for anyone strong enough!
From here it was a nice walk to the top with stunning views over to Lofoten.
Thankfully there was bolted rappell anchors from above the last pitch of climbing. The first rappell pitch was long. We rappelled straight down to a ledge from a 25m rappell, and from here had to walk (rather exposed) on the ledge to climbers right, and up a little bit before we came to the next anchor. The next two rappells were short and relatively straight down. The last rappell was a long one. I tried first for a 25m rappell, but came to the end of the rope in the middle of a sva wall and had to climb up again. Once I came to the anchor, I tied both ropes together and rappelled the full 50m down to just before the first diedral (also almost straight down).
All in all a fantastic trip, with climbing that wasn´t too technical. Really rewarding to start leading things by myself. Takk for turen Bendik!
User comments
Morsomt å se
Written by Olepetter 30.06.2020 09:08flotte bilder fra dette herlige fjellet! Mimret litt, og gleder meg over at andre har nytte av rapporten min.
Sv: Morsomt å se
Written by Skippy 30.06.2020 21:01Ja, TUSEN TAKK for en helt fantastisk rapport! Jeg følte meg godt kjent, og brukte bildene fra dine rapport for å se om vi var i riktig plass. Møt en på toppen som hadde også satt pris på din rapport :)
gratulerer!
Written by otto 29.06.2020 22:27Optimalt klatrevær, du takler det meste Innika..
Sv: gratulerer!
Written by Skippy 30.06.2020 21:02Takk! Helt nydelig vær, og godt å klatre på egen hånd :)
grattis!
Written by uglefisk 29.06.2020 20:16Imponerende første-tur som klatrefører!! Veldig flink :D
Sv: grattis!
Written by Skippy 30.06.2020 21:02Tusen takk!!! :)